Tuesday, 11 February 2014


Apparently it is common, though always traumatic.
This morning I deleted all my photos without backing them up,**** (expletive deleted too). Much to my relief I have found that it is possible to retrieve them but not until I get home, so photos for today are from Bernie's collection. Last few hours were depressed!!
Cameli Safari
Riding on camels is a major workout for the hips and abs. Getting up on them in the first place is a challenge. Climb on and lean right back because they get up back legs first, then quick flip forward for the front. Very impolite animals, they snort and belch and do this weird regurgitation thing with their stored water which they swill up into their tongues and swallow, for some this involves a big swollen bladder of tongue slurping noisily and ugly out of the side of their mouths. Quite disgusting, plus they suffer from loud and stinky flatulence. But their feet on rough ground are things of beauty, they look like gel pads moulding to the terrain, a bit mesmerising to watch. My camel was called Balloo, and was a docile creature, unlike some. Bernie's camel kept biting the ass of the one in front...
The camp was great, spent on camp cots under the stars with tons of blankets and lovely colourful sheets. We had a campfire (not up to Shawn's standards but wood was a bit scarce) and music. Our guide brought his guitar and one of the camel herders sang severl songs some traditional and some very tongue in cheek. His rendition of "cameli safari" made fun of us all. Several people recorded it so we will have it for posterity. At the camp we were in sanddunes and they glowed golden in the deep red sunset, but en route we followed the line of a windfarm and had to look the other way to feel we were away from it all! There are hundreds and hundreds of windmills and more being built on the Thar desert.They supply most of the power for the province of Rajasthan.

Next town was Romantic Udaipur. On Lake Pichola it is the seat of one of the Maharanas of Rajasthan and the location for most of the 007 film "Octopussy". There are two stunning Palaces and multi star hotels both on the lakeshores or right in the middle and accessed only by boat -or helicopter if you have one, and no doubt many of the guests do. Our hotel was in the old city and almost on the water, the rooftop restaurant overlooked the lake at least. Our room was vast and had ornate pillars and painted friezes all around.
Bernie went to see the Maharana's classic car collection which had several old Morris Minors and a magnificent, perfect Rolls Royce. I went to visit various local artists and potters with a local guide who was himself a contemporary artist and ran the best cafe in the city. His brother and sisters painted miniatures which the city is famous for. They are very stylised and intricate. Everyone seems to be self employed somehow and everyone has a product or service they are trying to flog you. Walking is constantly running the gauntlet of salesmen and beggars. 
Speaking of beggars, and of crowds, they are fewer than we expected. The traffic is wilder than we expected though, in fact it is bedlam. Frequently where there is a median for example the gaps will not line up with the turn opposite so you end up driving the wrong way on the road until you can turn. Scary.



Our group are an interesting and varied bunch of people. Our leader Nivan"Guru is terrific and works hard to accommodate the various interests among us. We need a bit of flexibility and that obviously can necessitate some logistical changes which he is expert at. He is also very knowledgeable and has a huge love for his country which comes across all the time.
Pushkar was a town with only 15,000 population this allowed a relaxing pace after the rather frenetic time in Jodhpur. One of the holiest cities in India it was full of temples and had 42 ghats where people bathed in the little lake or strew flowers on the water. We climbed to a high temple on an isolated knoll. This ancient landscape looked like it was formed by retreating glaciers and old riverbeds, so there were high steep hills like islands in a flat plain. The steps up were steep and worn to slippery over the centuries, ok for me in pants but quite a struggle for the beautifully dressed Indian women in saris. Here there are no strollers so all the babies are carried in arms (unlike central America they do not even wrap them in blankets or slings) so along with many of the women were puffing men with sleeping kids on their shoulders. The babies are all invariably adorable.
Now we are in Jaipur, another big busy city. Bernie is fighting a cold so we are taking it a bit easy. He is the 6th one to go down with it.....half the group. Fingers crossed I avoid it.
Last night we went to the cinema. Like a cupcake with meringue swirls all pink and pale blue and white it is worth a visit just for the building. Over the top.... the Bollywood movie was confusing with no subtitles but the basic idea, one guy, two sisters, etc was enough to get the jist.
Love, 
Mary and Bernie


2 comments:

  1. You might want to hide that memory card so as not to take over what's on there!Your camel ride brought back memories from Tunisia. Yes they are strange animals. The traffic "rules" sound very scary. I hope Bernie gets over his cold soon & that you do not get it.
    Very cold & clear here this morning, -14C on my thermometer!
    Keep the stories coming, they really make my coffee taste great.
    Thinking of you

    Derek

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  2. Sounds like you are really experiencing India. Love the picture of the outdoor bed room.
    Hope you missed out on Bernie's cold and he is getting better.
    Just above freezing at 3 pm right now. Nice to see pictures and here of adventures in sunnier climates.
    Tx for blogging

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